Roses, particularly Flower Carpet and Knock Out roses, are mainstays of my perennial garden. They are no-fuss, no-muss roses that bloom and look good without removing old flowers or using chemicals.
I prune the roses before March rolls in, using bypass hand pruners to cut them back to 12 to 18 inches above ground.
When I need expert advice on pruning hybrid tea and other more specialized roses, I turn to York County rosarians Carole and Wiley Waters. They are members of the Virginia Peninsula Rose Society, which will hold a free pruning workshop 2 to 4 p.m. Sunday in the rose garden at Huntington Park in Newport News.
"The 'ideal' time to prune roses is when forsythia blooms," says Carole. "Around here, that's usually late February. A little later or earlier is fine; but if you're really late, go ahead and prune anyway. It's better to prune late than not at all."
The purpose of pruning is to remove dead, diseased and crossing canes, as well as to maintain the desired shape of the bush. Opening the center of the bush allows air circulation, which reduces pest and disease problems.
"If you are not sure what kind of roses you have, it is usually safe to cut back the canes at least one third," she says.
Here are Carole's tips on February-March care for roses:
- Knock Out roses need a little help.
There is a misconception they need no care, but they usually quickly outgrow their space. Use hedge trimmers to reduce them at least one-third or more. Pruning gives you more blooms and a healthier bush.
- Make sure pruners fit your hand.
This reduces fatigue. Pruners for ladies and smaller hands are hard to find but available in most garden catalogs and on the Internet. Felco's No. 6 are a pair to consider.
- Don't be afraid to prune.
There is little you can do to harm when pruning, except for cutting below the crown — the swollen area at the base of the plant.
- Make the right cut.
Look for an outward facing dormant eye, a slight swelling resembling a small pimple. Make the cut at a 45-degree angle, 1/4 inch above the eye, sloping the cut down and away from the eye.
Use a pruning saw if the cane you want to remove is close to one you want to save. Forcing the pruner into a tight spot usually damages the good cane.
For large-diameter canes you may need to switch to long-handled loppers. The cane is easier to cut and may prevent damage to your pruners.
Above all. Keep your pruner blades clean and sharp — sap and soil accumulate on the blades, leaving a dark coating. Clean the blades with sandpaper. A metal file can be used to sharpen the blades. Dirty, dull blades chew the cane, leaving a ragged cut; clean, sharp blades give a smooth, clean cut.
Article by Kathy Van Mullekom
Want to know more? If you would like more detailed information on pruning roses, e-mail me at kvanmullekom@dailypress.com and I will forward an illustrated document prepared by Bob Little, a rosarian and member of the local rose society
